REVIEW: Indian Accent, Mayfair
WHAT? Joining a legion of extremely posh Indian restaurants popping up in London, Indian Accent is up there with the absolute best. Exquisite flavours are explored in extremely modern takes on traditional dishes, served up in a sleek Mayfair venue by staff with expert knowledge on the cuisine. Beautiful green banquettes trimmed with gold, (very) dim lighting and the smooth countenance of the staff makes for a sensual setting in which to share truly stunning food.
WHERE? After a successful opening in New York in 2015, Tamarai owner Rohit Khattar has taken over the Mayfair site that was once home to the more cluttered, albeit homely, Indian restaurant Chor Bizarre.
WHY GO? To say you’ve been, of course – and to try London’s most delicious sweet pickle pork ribs.
HOW MUCH? We were lucky enough to sample the 9 course chef’s tasting menu priced at £85 per person, but there are plenty of cheaper options. The sheer quality of the food makes the two course lunch (priced at £25 per person) an absolute steal, while a ‘business lunch’ will set you back just £19 per person.
We began our experience with puchkas (crunchy, hollow pani puri served with five delicious ‘waters’), before moving on to a variety of dishes that included kashmiri morels with walnut powder and parmesan papad, an excellent soy keema served with a quail egg, lime leaf and butter pao, and anaar chuski (a sorbet to cleanse the palate).
Of the nine courses, most memorable was the array of pillowy, flavoured kulcha, a mildly leavened flatbread served with black dairy dal and wasabi yoghurt. This was a delicious variation on Naan, for which alone we’d return to Indian Accent, alongside lightly spiced chicken malai tikka.
Of the entire menu, only the Makhan malai (a sickly sweet treat made with milk cream) failed to please, but a fantastically fudge-like Doda Burfi treacle tart, encased in light shortcrust pastry, lent a spectacular finish to a very special meal.
ANYTHING ELSE? The Beverage menu is dizzyingly long, the excellent Bugey Cerdon sparkling rose enjoyed so thoroughly that we ordered a bottle online upon arriving home.
Amy was a guest of Indian Accent