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REVIEW: Trullo, Islington

REVIEW: Trullo, Islington

WHAT? A candlelit neighbourhood trattoria lifted straight out of the best scene in a Richard Curtis classic, peddling simply the best pasta found north of the river.

Trullo’s seasonally-focused, Italian-inspired menu changes daily, but you can count on silky handmade pasta and grilled meat dishes taking centre stage. Divided into Antipasti, Primi and Charcoal Grill options, it’s perfect for anyone struggling with the notion of choosing just one dish – happily, you’re recommended to pick one from all three.

WHY GO? We feel confident in our assertion that you can’t find more authentic pasta dishes this side of the Thames – but only because the same team created the reigning champion of the South, too. Borough Market’s heaving bistro cum pasta bar, Padella (yes, the very same your colleagues have implored you to visit) is worth every minute in the queue that snakes daily down the road. Plus, Trullo’s decor is spot-on: homely yet artful, warm and inviting. Floorboards are bare, aged photographs dot the walls and banquettes add a cosy feel – ideal for an intimate date or catch up with visiting parents.

You could hope for Wiltshire burrata with smashed peas and mint to pop up on your visit, or the lauded bruschetta of Dorset crab. Another time, Dorset lamb rump with braised violetta artichokes, or tagliatelle with nduja and crème fraiche.

Our visit featured an exquisite plate of seabass ceviche, layers of delicate fish and equally tasty oils mopped up with crusty homemade bread. Gloriously rich beef 8-hour Dexter beef shin ragu came next, folded into sunshine-yellow ribbons of pappardelle. A huge Black Hampshire pork chop with baked borlotti beans and salsa rossa finished our meal, as we declared ourselves too full for dessert – though our neighbour’s wobbly vanilla pannacotta with grappa looked nothing short of perfect. Sampling this (and the cheeses, oh, the cheeses) would provide a valid excuse to return imminently – though you’ll truly never need one.

WHERE? In the heart of Highbury, a short walk from Highbury & Islington tube/rail.

BEST DISH? Get the beef shin ragu. Just trust us on this one.

DETAILS: / 300 – 302 St Paul’s Road, London, N1 2LH / 020 7226 2733 /

Amy Everett is FashionBite's food and travel editor, she also writes for national newspapers and magazines including the Guardian Travel, Stylist, Shortlist, Red, Cosmopolitan and more.

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