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REVIEW: Martello Hall Bottomless Brunch, London Fields

REVIEW: Martello Hall Bottomless Brunch, London Fields

WHAT? For £15 per person, you can pick drinks from Martello Hall’s bottomless brunch bar for two hours. Where other bottomless offerings ask that you stick with your preferred drink for the duration, here you can hop between mimosas (Italian frizzante, peach liqueur and orange juice), Martello rum punch (stonkingly strong overproof and dark rums with cherry bitters, juice and fresh fruit), Frizzante Prosecco and juices.

WHY GO? Martello Hall’s arrival last year didn’t come without controversy. Its fiercely gentrified, artfully distressed decor and chi chi menu replaced the offerings of a beloved, old-school Hackney boozer – but there’s no denying the food is excellent and it’s a cool space for the swell of young locals to hang out.

Welcoming freelancers with bottomless coffee and speedy wifi, there are plenty of touches that take the place beyond ‘yet another hip eating establishment’ – there’s a varied programme of DJs, supper clubs and even tarot card readings to reel you in – not to mention sumptuous roast dinners between 12-8 every Sunday.

Of course, there’s food on offer, too – and the choice is varied. Try the likes of rosemary & parmesan focaccia with marmite butter (£3) or Padron peppers and sea salt (£4) for the table, before gorging on the house dishes. We tried a huge, comforting bowl of salt beef & potato hash, crispy shallots and fried eggs served with pizza-esque pita bread fired in the oven (£9), plus the lighter option of toast with avocado, feta, chilli, roast tomatoes, lemon and nut dukkah (£8).

Pizza is piping hot and fresh, directly from the authentic wood oven in the back of the restaurant that adds a homely feel to the intensely industrial, plaster-stripped surrounds. Classic Margherita is joined by a range of trendy options, so thin, sloppy pizza purists, beware – there’s not a pepperoni or pineapple slice in sight.  Think the ‘Phoenix’, toasted pistachio, parmesan, pecorino, red & spring onions and rosemary (£9) or a ‘Bianco’ – speck, wild mushrooms, tallegio, walnuts, salsa di noci and tarragon (£12).

GOOD TO KNOW: They sell sausage rolls by the inch, and distill their own (excellent) gin, helped by Bow’s East London Liquor Company.

WHERE? A hop, skip and a jump from London Fields overground. Perhaps best to arrive by train, as the only downside to our thoroughly enjoyable visit was finding one of our bicycles to have been stolen, tethered outside on Mare Street. Had that not happened, we’re sure our bevy of excellent drinks would have made us too squiffy to ride home anyway. When they taste this good, a third or fourth is too good to refuse…

DETAILS: / 137 Mare Street, London, E8 3RHMARE ST / 020 3889 6173 / / Bottomless brunch is available Saturdays & Sundays from 11am

Amy Everett is FashionBite's food and travel editor, she also writes for national newspapers and magazines including the Guardian Travel, Stylist, Shortlist, Red, Cosmopolitan and more.

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