WHAT? All the classics and a smattering of contemporary dishes in a two-floor cafe-cum-Thai restaurant in Covent Garden.

Suda Thai’s shining glass exterior doesn’t do much to set it apart from its St. Martin’s courtyard competitors, but the colourful plates are authentically South East Asian.

First, pick an excellent cocktail – we loved ‘Thai Pimm’s’ with fresh Thai ginger, mint, holy basil, orange, cucumber and lemonade – you’ll need something to sip on while you peruse the huge menu.

To start, you might fancy Kanom Jeeb (Thai-style steamed prawn & chicken Siu Mai with a sweet & sour soya reduction), duck rolls or chilli calamari, but save room for seared duck breast with a piquant tamarind sauce & crispy shallot, or crispy battered sea bass fillet, drizzled with sweet & sour chilli sauce.

The more extravagant options top out around £13.95, the likes of herb-marinated, beautifully-cooked lamb chops adding a couple of quid to the average price of a dish here.

Wok-seared pak choy glazed with oyster sauce makes for a refreshing side dish, packed with flavour.

HOW MUCH: Starters begin at a decent £5.25, going up to large sharing platters at £8.80 per person. Rice and noodle dishes are about £9-16.50, while traditional curries hover around £11.50. Can’t decide what to have for your main? Opt for tasting bowl curries – just £15.50 for three of your favourites.

STAND-OUT DISH: Herb-poached sea bass in a tangy lime & chilli sauce. Healthy, fresh and totally delicious.

ADDRESS: St Martin’s Courtyard (off Upper St. Martin’s Lane), Covent Garden, London, WC2E 9AB

WEBSITE: Suda-thai.com