02 Jul, Saturday
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REVIEW: Boondocks, Angel

REVIEW: Boondocks, Angel


WHAT? Brand new sister restaurant to Stax, London’s matchless Deep South American food experience in London. In between chi chi Angel and bustling Shoreditch, this beautifully lit 60-seater manages to stay cosy and busy all at once. The walls are papered with tea-stained music sheets, lanterns and tree branches hung with thousands of tiny fairy lights. There’s a downstairs bar, too.

The brainchild of Virginian Bea Vo, the same Bea behind cute tea and cake chain Bea’s of Bloomsbury, Boondocks offers up heart-stoppingly indulgent burgers, nachos, fresh juices and fried green tomatoes with the same care and attention to detail that makes every one of her ventures unforgettable.


WHEN? Open seven days a week, but roll your sleeves up for the restaurant’s signature ‘Crayfish Boil’ – a £40 all-in ho down that runs on specific dates. Picture a bottomless eating extravaganza served up on mounds of newspaper – cajun spiced crayfish, spiced beef sausages, sweetcorn, red potatoes, garlic bread and cajun butter, plus unlimited ice lollies and chocolate brownies for dessert. Told you this place was special.

Boondocks Nachos, smothered in spiced cheese sauce and Crema Mexicana, were excellent. Followed by a ‘Buffalo Monster’ burger (Stax burger with fried chicken, mature cheddar, caramelised onions and buffalo sauce) our plus one was soon begging for mercy.


We also tried the ‘Ranch Chickadee’, a fried chicken sandwich with American cheese, maple-glazed beef bacon and ranch dressing, with ‘Animal Style’ fries (covered in cheese sauce, caramelised onions and a special burger sauce).

There’s a huge selection of drinks, from unctuous milkshakes (from Key Lime Pie to Butter Crunch flavour) to sweet teas and lemonades made with Bea’s secret recipe, to cocktails, ice cream floats and craft beers. Leave your diet at the door.


Safe to say, a breather was needed before we considered the dessert menu – but S’mores, a nostalgic mix of Graham crackers, melted marshmallows and chocolate squares, made over an open flame at your table (!) meant quitting wasn’t an option.

HOW MUCH? Small animal fries £4.75, Buffalo Monster burger £13,50 (but burgers start at £8.95) and S’mores £2.75 per marshmallow (you’ll want at least two each).


ADDRESS: 205 City Road, London, EC1V 1JN

Amy Everett is FashionBite's food and travel editor, she also writes for national newspapers and magazines including the Guardian Travel, Stylist, Shortlist, Red, Cosmopolitan and more.

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