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REVIEW: CôBa, King’s Cross

REVIEW: CôBa, King’s Cross

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Our trip across Vietnam last summer was fuelled by Banh Mi from tiny street carts, artfully cooked Asian BBQ and steaming bowls of noodle broth.

Eyes now attuned to Vietnamese words, the capital seemed to buzz with SouthEast Asian openings.

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Door upon door leads to Pho and spring rolls on Kingsland Road, socialites lining their bellies before a night out.

This slap-up style dining is always fun, but we’ve been looking for a carefully crafted menu far from the BYOB bustle. King’s Cross affords a new option for those who want to stop and savour – with a menu of lethal tea-based cocktails if you’re still intent on getting merry.

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CôBa is run by Vietnamese-born Damon Bui. He began a supper club three years ago, his success sparking him to open what translates to ‘Auntie Number Three’, this restaurant based on his mother’s inspired home cooking.

A warm yet sophisticated dining room on the corner of Brandon and York Road boasts bronze fittings and filament bulbs – Bui knows what Londoners like, including short menus and excellent service.

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Sorting the Small Plates from the Big Bowls, staff are delighted to talk you through the choices – stand out dishes include fresh, crunchy summer rolls with a tangy Satay sauce, meltingly soft lamb cutlets and huge slabs of piping hot prawn toast that’ll put any takeaway to shame.

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Soup noodles showcase traditional dishes done well, the duck ramen tempting us back for a return visit – tender and light with just the right touch of spice. Even dessert, often an afterthought in a place such as this, was fantastic – a creamy panna cotta with fruit so fresh we regretted opting to share. At last, we’ve found our slice of the SouthEast, and it’s nowhere near Shoreditch.

Amy @ Fashionbite xx

Address: 

Website: Cobarestaurant.co.uk

Amy Everett is FashionBite's food and travel editor, she also writes for national newspapers and magazines including the Guardian Travel, Stylist, Shortlist, Red, Cosmopolitan and more.

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