REVIEW: Red Dog Saloon, Soho
Having reviewed Red Dog Saloon in Hoxton Square some years ago, we thought we knew what to expect when heading to the chain’s latest outpost in Soho, on Berwick Street. More Big Easy than Hawskmoor, closer to Bodeans than Gaucho, it’s a roll-your-sleeves-up, screw the diet, pass me the MEAT type of place.
Large groups of uber-lads taking on The Devastator challenge, City types tucking into Brooklyn beers and sticky wings, trendy girls wishing they hadn’t worn their skinniest jeans as they try to keep up with the fracas – we thought we knew what was coming. But the Soho site is different – small (cosy, even), all on one floor, and crucially, quiet.
The buffalo skulls and wooden walls are still there, as is the super-chipper, Americanised service – but low lighting and subtle music make for an altogether more grown up ambiance. Now for the crucial bit – the food.
A Carnivore Platter lets you sample as much as you can stomach (with the help of a friend) at £22.50 per person, an embarrassment of slow-cooked and sticky delights. Pulled pork, sausage, ribs, chicken wings and brisket arrives on a board so huge it can barely fit on the table (space is pretty tight in this teeny venue), but somehow you’ll find room for the two sides per person that comes with it.
Mac ‘n’ cheese evokes comforting school dinners of yesteryear, pleasant but not spectacular. Collard greens are a good choice for those desperate to feel even slightly virtuous but alas, inside hides chunks of meaty goodness. Classic French fries provide a little respite from all the meats, but barbecue beans are a hit too.
In terms of dessert, there can be only one to find room for – the mess of banana cream Oreo perfection you won’t possibly finish, but dream about for days afterwards. All washed down with a super spicy margarita on the rocks (try one in every flavour), you’ll have to roll out the door – luckily Soho’s full of places to dance it off.
Amy @ Fashionbite xx
Address: 20 Berwick Street, London, W1F 0PY / 0203 457 6930