REVIEW: The Salt Room, Brighton
Back in May, we had the pleasure of venturing down to Brighton with one very specific purpose – to check out the much-hyped sister restaurant to Coal Shed, one of our favourite eateries in a city blessed with several winners (64 Degrees, Lucky Beach and the private dining room at beautiful boutique B&B Artist’s Residence also worth noting).
Where Coal Shed is small, dark and sensual, tucked away down a tiny side street near Brighton station, The Salt Room is large and airy – directly opposite the West Pier, it can seat 84 in the dining room, 16 at the bar and a further 55 on the terrace (excellent views of the sea and a very decent spot for people watching).
One factor binds the two together – meticulously chosen meats and fish cooked on an achingly fashionable Josper grill (first pioneered by the clever people at Hawksmoor, another London foodie stalwart).
Unsurprisingly, The Salt Room’s menu focuses on fruits of the sea – but there’s plenty to keep meat eaters entertained (the lamb rump with aubergine and yoghurt particularly enticing).
The specials board teems with fresh, whole market fish, tempting many away from the fairly short but comprehensive menu. Standout dishes on our visit included some whopping great langoustines covered in tangy samphire and lobster with garlic and parsley butter.
Drinks are well thought out, too – we started with a Lemonsecco from the ‘Sailor’s Tipple’ menu – Aperol, raspberries, Prosecco and lemon salt. A crisp Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet was perfect with a thick slab of cod served with octopus.
Sides, which can sometimes feel like an afterthought, were perfectly presented – charred hispi cabbage with hazelnuts and meltingly soft yet crunchy fries. Mains were so good, we somehow expected disappointment at dessert – but yet again, the passionate team came up trumps.
Resisting the theatrical signature dessert, ‘Taste Of The Pier’ (a stunning feat of the imagination involving ice cream cones, candy floss and all manner of tiny tasters – a must if you’re visiting with children) we plumped for perhaps the most indulgent chocolate pudding on the planet, scattered with honeycomb.
Go here. Go here soon. Then book up to go again on your way out – when the sun finally puts his hat on, this is undoubtedly the best spot in Brighton – and you’ll want a window seat.
Address: The Salt Room, 106 Kings Road, Brighton / 01273 929488