REVIEW: The Joint, Marylebone
The birth of many a great eatery has taken place in the labyrinthine passages of Brixton market, The Joint being a longtime favourite of ours. You’ll find it tucked away near bustling pizza joints (Franco Manca rules all) and awesomely cheap Asian restaurants (hit Mama Lan for dumplings), just a cluster of kitchen equipment and a few tables.
This tiny outfit is dedicated to doing a handful of dishes extremely well. The main attraction? Soft, slow-cooked, shredded meats to make any vegetarian see the light.
So loud has the buzz surrounding their food become, The Joint’s been afforded bricks and mortar in the rather posher area of Marylebone. A giant peacock mural takes up one wall, but discounting this an industrial, dare we say unfinished-looking air remains.
Long benches and bare lightbulbs, cracked walls and low lighting – in terms of decor, it’s not cosy, but when the food arrives it’s no fuss, all flavour.
Warren Dean and Daniel Fiteni make a powerful chef/baker combo, knocking their heads together to produce an excellent product using the best ingredients. Sinfully unctuous meats are becoming more commonplace (check out Polpo if you’re in Soho), but it’s hard to find a pulled pork burger that doesn’t come in a dry or crumby bun you immediately want to chuck to one side.
Not here, though – homemade bread or potato (trust us, fantastic) buns add a wonderful pillowy texture, soaking up the juices from beef brisket with smoked aoili and bacon relish, or slow-cooked chicken (£8.50 – a total bargain).
Sides include the likes of indulgent BBQ riblets (£4.50), sweetcorn with BBQ butter (£4.50) and crunchy fries (£2.70), served up in large paper bags to be ripped open and dived into. Drop in after a few drinks and roll your sleeves up – you’ll enter tipsy and ravenous, leave messy but satisfied.
Of course, the cocktail menu’s worth trying if sobering up isn’t your intention – we took a liking to the tooth-achingly sweet Figgy Old Fashioned, made with Bourbon, Angostura bitters, fig and vanilla syrup – it’s the only dessert you’ll need.
Address: 19 New Cavendish Street, Marylebone, London, W1G 9TZ