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REVIEW: Suvlaki, Soho

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Soho’s streets are bursting with cool little places to duck into for a bite – but until now we couldn’t name you a Greek restaurant we’d think to try our luck at. Formerly 21 Bateman Street, the restaurant that is now Suvlaki has always served Greek fare – but underwhelming reviews kept it well under the radar.

Whatever the economic climate, this country can do great food – and we were keen to remind ourselves of that.

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Stepping into the refurbished space it’s clear real money has been spent on turning the place around. Italian fluted pillars line the wall on one side, Moroccan tiles add a pop of texture and marble table tops have been flown all the way from Greece.We might be here for posh kebabs, but it’s a grander setting than we imagined – and the wine’s far from something you’d blindly throw down your neck at 2am.

Meats are cooked over a robata-style grill, skewers (3 for £11) of glistening lamb mince alongside gamey wild boar sausage hailing from Mount Olympus itself.

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You can have any 3 suvlaki wraps for £12, from chicken thighs with plum tomatoes to a vegetarian option of Chios island Mastelo cheese, vegetables and turmeric sauce.

Slightly overwhelmed, we opted for the ‘Suvlaki Exuberance’ sharing platter (£34) to share, offering a choice of two skewers, two mini wraps, four sides & a pita burger. Feta cheese salads were a little small, and for the price, one would expect some more chips – but the variety of meats won us over.

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There are just two items on the dessert menu, but we’re guessing most people are well into the Greek wine list by that point – many are £22 a bottle, a great price for obvious quality.

Stumbling out into the night in search of somewhere to dance, (the obligatory shot of Ouzo might do that to you at just £2), we felt we’d done the night backwards – we just wish it was open until 2am so we could grab something to scoff on the night bus home.

Website: Suvlaki.co.uk

Contact: 0207 287 6638 / info@suvlaki.co.uk

Address: 21 Bateman St, London, W1D 3ALSign-Up To FashionBite’s Weekly News

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