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REVIEW: Wright Brothers, Spitalfields

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J Sheekey, The Ivy and Le Coq D’Argent. Three London restaurants on the wish list of any self-respecting foodie. Their common denominator? Richard Kirkwood, the star chef now poached by Wright Brothers to pioneer their ‘sea-to-plate’ dining vision, calling the shots at the newly-opened branch in Spitalfields.

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We love a Happy Hour, truly – but one for oysters is a grown-up evolution we’re wholly behind. You can enjoy them at the magnificent marble bar for £1 each between 3 and 6pm here, and taking a look around the menu, we also spot a fabulously fishy Brunch menu – the likes of crab omelette and shellfish bisque making us question our choice of evening visit.

Our starters’ arrival soon reversed that thinking – indulgent, oily chorizo, seared octopus and broad beans sizzled while yellow fin tuna tartare with a poached quail’s egg oozed decadence.

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The ambiance is truly lovely – low lighting, candles on every table and (surprisingly comfy) wooden bench seating with industrial fittings, walls plastered with old-fashioned maps and nautical nods. A deserved winner of the Restaurant R200 Award for Most Effective Design – it’s atmospheric but not cramped, subtle changes in floor levels and exposed brickwork creating a textured feel.

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Mains were a delight – monkfish risotto (recommended by a waitress who’d tried it that very morning – always a good sign) and a fillet of sea bass with broccoli, chilli & lemon sauce. Three Jersey oysters each before our starters may have contributed towards our lack of room for dessert, but we weren’t sorry – everything we did eat was expertly cooked, beautifully plated and served with a genuine smile.

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You can’t ask for more in a tourist spot like Spitalfields market – world-class seafood for serious fish lovers at reasonable prices. We’ll be back for brunch as soon as possible.

Website: Thewrightbrothers.co.uk

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